Many people associate Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel with tweed suits and quilted handbags, but the iconic designer actually began her fashion career with much simpler pieces. Starting out as a milliner (hat maker), Chanel launched her clothing line with wool jersey pullover sweaters and dresses. Inspired by men’s clothing and the sailor uniforms she saw while living in the stylish seaside resort of Deauville in Normandy, France, her designs were comfortable, loose-fitting, and easy to wear—perfect for beachside leisure. These sporty, relaxed garments stood in stark contrast to the stiff, corseted fashions women typically wore at the time. As her reputation grew, Chanel expanded into more elaborate creations such as evening gowns, the "little black dress," and embroidered coats. Though she debuted the tweed suit in the 1920s, it became a true hallmark of the Chanel brand in the 1950s and 60s, particularly after her 1954 comeback collection, which helped reestablish her as a dominant force in post-war fashion. The iconic Chanel quilted handbag, known as the Chanel 2.55, debuted in February 1955—hence the name “2.55.”
The Jersey Pullover
More images of Chanel's first jersey pullover reveal how proud she was of the design—she staged multiple photo shoots wearing the same outfit in different settings, including the beach and in front of her boutique. Although the pullover appears cream in the photos, it was actually black. Chanel also had a fondness for floral details, particularly camellias—her signature flower—which she often used as embellishments, like the camellia-shaped belt accent added at the waistline.
The Marinière (jersey striped top)
Coco Chanel's early adoption of striped jersey tops and dresses was a pivotal moment in fashion history, blending comfort with elegance. Drawing inspiration from the nautical uniforms of French sailors, Chanel introduced the marinière—a striped jersey blouse with a sailor collar—into women's fashion around 1913. This design was revolutionary, as it repurposed jersey fabric, traditionally used for men's undergarments, into stylish and liberating attire for women.
Chanel's striped jersey creations were characterized by their loose fit and minimalistic design, allowing for greater freedom of movement compared to the restrictive corseted garments of the time. She often photographed herself wearing these ensembles in various settings, including beaches and storefronts, showcasing their versatility and her pride in the designs.
The marinière became a staple in Chanel's collections, symbolizing a shift towards more practical and comfortable women's clothing. This approach not only challenged the fashion norms of the early 20th century but also laid the foundation for modern women's wear, emphasizing functionality without sacrificing style.
The Tweed Suit
Coco Chanel first introduced her iconic tweed suit in 1925, shortly after returning to the fashion world following a brief hiatus during World War I.
She was inspired by the clothing worn by her then-lover, the Duke of Westminster, and sourced tweed fabrics from Scottish mills. The suit—typically composed of a collarless, braid-trimmed jacket and a matching skirt—was revolutionary for its time. It offered women a new sense of elegance combined with comfort and freedom of movement, in stark contrast to the restrictive styles of earlier decades.
Though she debuted the tweed suit in the 1920s, it became a true hallmark of the Chanel brand in the 1950s and 60s, particularly after her 1954 comeback collection, which helped reestablish her as a dominant force in post-war fashion.
While photographs of the very first 1925 tweed suit are scarce, images from the late 1920s capture the essence of Chanel's early designs. For instance, 1929 photographs (above) showcases a Chanel tweed suit featuring a fitted hip-length jacket and a pleated skirt, embodying the brand's commitment to functional elegance.
These early designs laid the foundation for what would become a timeless symbol of women's empowerment and style. Chanel in her signature tweed set (above) with black trim became an iconic look for the famed designer.
The Little Black Dress
One of the most enduring pieces in Chanel’s legacy is the "little black dress,"or LBD—a garment that changed the course of 20th-century fashion. In 1926, Chanel debuted her first version of the LBD in Vogue magazine (illustration top right): a simple, straight-cut black crêpe de Chine dress with long sleeves and minimal embellishment. The magazine famously referred to it as “Chanel’s Ford,” comparing it to the Model T for its universal accessibility. At the time, black was still associated with mourning and not considered fashionable for evening wear. But Chanel reimagined it as the epitome of chic, elegant minimalism—accessible, versatile, and timeless. The original design was meant to be a sort of fashion blank slate, something any woman could personalize with accessories, pearls, or a great coat. What made the LBD revolutionary wasn’t just its simplicity, but its practical elegance—Chanel believed fashion should serve women’s lives, not constrain them.
Accessories: Belts
Whether cinching the waist of a little black dress or accenting a tweed jacket, Chanel belts exemplify her core design philosophy: combine elegance with ease, and never overlook the details.
In the early days, particularly with her jersey dresses and pullover tops, Chanel often used belts to define the waist. These weren’t stiff or restrictive, but soft, often fabric-based or featuring a floral detail—like the camellia, her signature bloom. This added a feminine touch to otherwise relaxed, androgynous garments.
As her designs evolved, so did the belts. In the 1950s and 60s, Chanel introduced chain belts—often gold-toned, sometimes with leather woven through them, and adorned with charms, interlocking C logos, or medallions. These belts became more than just functional pieces; they were jewelry-like accents, worn slung low on the hips over dresses, tunics, or tailored suits. The signature chain belt is now instantly recognizable as part of the Chanel aesthetic—luxurious, statement-making, and timeless.
I’m drawn to Chanel not just for her iconic designs, but for the way she challenged norms and reshaped women’s fashion. My interest lies more in the history of fashion and the designers who influenced cultural shifts, rather than in following trends or luxury labels for their own sake. I’m far more fascinated by how garments tell stories, reflect eras, and empower the people who wear them.
As someone who sews, I’m excited to take inspiration from Chanel’s early work and bring those ideas into my own projects. Over the next few weeks, I’ll be sharing some sewing projects that reflect the spirit of her original designs—think striped jersey tops, relaxed silhouettes, and subtle floral details like camellia embellishments. These won’t be exact replicas, but rather modern interpretations that honor the practicality, elegance, and innovation that made Chanel’s early pieces so groundbreaking. Whether you're into fashion history, sewing, or just love a good striped top, I hope you'll follow (and sew) along.
