DIY: Water Bottle Carrier

It's Summer break here and my boys and I have been on the move. We enjoy this time of year outdoors, whether it's trips to the beach, our favorite trails, or fun excursions. I typically need to have 4 things with me at all times: keys, wallet, phone, and water bottle. I pack relatively light and that's because I'm usually holding my toddler with me wherever I go. If you have a little one you know it's a constant juggling act.  Even with a tote I find I'm scrummaging through to find these items. I finally had enough after dropping my phone AGAIN and designed a bag/carrier that will work for my lifestyle. I designed this insulated water bottle carrier bag with a front mesh pocket for my phone and wallet and a place to hang my keys. Follow the tutorial below and see how this carrier comes together with the many Dritz products and hardware.



 This is for a water bottle that measures 10" long with an 10.5" circumference. I also wanted the top lid to stick out so I could drink without opening the drawstring every time (efficiency when dealing with a toddler is key). 
Adjust accordingly. I suggest measuring your water bottle and adding 2" to the length. For the width measure the circumference divide by 2 and + 2". Those measurements should create your rectangle template. 

  • 2 exterior pieces: 7" x 11"
  • 2 interior pieces (insulation material): 7" x 11"
  • 1 pocket: 7"x7"
  • Fold-Over Elastic for pocket edge: 5.5"
  • Drawstring cording: 20"
  • 1" Polypro Strapping 60" 


Pin the Fold-Over Elastic (FOE) along the pocket edge matching midpoints.

The FOE is slightly smaller than the pocket so you will have to stretch it as you sew. Use a slight zigzag stitch (2.0/2.5) and sew along the edges of the FOE making sure to get both sides. 

Pin the pocket onto one of the exterior pieces. Sew along the side edges and bottom edge. I sewed right along the edges about 1/8" seam allowance. 

Place both exterior and interior pieces right sides together and pin. For the exterior pieces sew side edges and bottom (1/4" seam allowance). 

For the insulation pieces: leave a 2.5" opening at midpoint on one side edge. 

I wanted to make a flat bottom without having to create a circular bottom pieces. Here's how I did it:

Measure 1.5" up on the sides of all pieces and mark. 

Fold so side seams connect with the bottom seams. Nest the seam allowance so the side seams are laying one direction and the bottom seams are the other direction. Pin. You can also continue the mark across with tailors chalk if you need too. 

Note: Make sure your pocket is folded and pinned as well on it's correct side. 

Repeat for all 4 sides...

Sew along the mark straight across so your sewing off a triangle at each end. 

Trim the seam allowance (triangle) off to 1/4". 

Note: Before trimming the exterior flip right side out to ensure pocket was sewn correctly. 

Find midpoint of front piece, mark 2 evenly spaced dots 1/2" down from edge and 1/2" apart and insert 2 eyelets. You can see how this is done here.

Add 2 D-Rings with tabs for the straps.
  • Cut 2 x 2" tabs of 1" Polypro Strapping. 
  • Fold over D-Ring
  • Fold over bottom raw edge 1/4" and then another 1/4" to encase the raw edge (or you can burn the raw edge to prevent fraying. 
  • Pin 2" down the side seam
  • Topstitch 2 rows encasing securing the tabs. 
  • Repeat for alternate side.

Sewing tabs along side seams. Make sure not sew the other side though.

Place exterior piece right side out into interior piece wrong side out so right sides are facing. Pin so sides seams match and eyelets are away from edge.

Note: if you're not sure about sewing the insulation material and pulling right sides out. You can always create a casing with fold over bias tape or create a top casing with additional fabric. Just insert the eyelets into that. Place the interior piece inside the exterior (wrong sides facing) and pin the casing on the top and just top stitch. 

Sew 1/4" seam allowance around the edge like such. It can get tricky here with the stiff insulation material but it works just fine.

Now pull right sides out through your liner opening. Again a bit tricky with the insulation material...just pull gently.  

Sew the liner opening shut (I just topstitch the raw edges together). 

Sew the casing for the drawstring 1/2" down or so from the edge. (Just make sure your under the eyelets and can pull a drawstring through. 

Sewing the casing again looks like this...a bit tricky but doable. 

Pull a drawstring cording through the eyelets using a safety pin. 

Once through you will need to burn the edges to prevent fraying. 

Use a cord stop and pull the cords through.

This helps so you don't lose the drawstring but also keeps the insulation tight around the top of the water bottle


Use a set of swivel hooks. Measure the length you want your strap to be and add 1" for each side for the swivel hooks. From here just fold over the Nylon strapping (burn the raw edges) and sew to secure over the swivel hooks. I like to sew a square with an x in the middle. 

If you want strap to use strap adjusters:
  • Work adjuster right side up-ridges on bar will be up.
  • On straight side, bring strap end up through first hole and down through middle hole.
  • Add the Swivel hook to one end, pull through and sew to secure.
  • On the other side, bring strap end up through middle hole and down through last hole.
  • Add the other Swivel hook, pull through, and sew to secure. 

It's a lot of steps but it's actually pretty easy once you start. So far I've used this daily since making it. We went to the Botanical Gardens in Atlanta yesterday and it was very useful.

*In collaboration with Dritz. 
I received compensation from Dritz®, and some of the materials featured here or used in this project were provided free of charge by Dritz®. All opinions are my own.



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  2. wow! This is my favorite. And thanks to this article I can do DIY: Water Bottle Carrier myself

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