3/19/18

DIY: Beaded Lace Bridal Jacket



Prior to starting Trash to Couture I began my sewing and design career with a clothing line that specialized in bridal wear.  I made wedding gowns to bridesmaids dresses and everything in between. It was an honor to be apart of such a special event in one's life.  After having my boys I put that part of my life on hold, but I still to this day am drawn to lace and embroidered textiles.  I was thrilled when Stylish Fabric asked me to design a look with their new wedding/bridal fabrics. I wanted to create a versatile look that could be worn from the rehearsal dinner, to the wedding, and even afterwards. So we came up with this Lace Bridal Jacket.


Get the details on how to make your own and tips for sewing with embroidered/beaded bridal fabrics below.



Supplies:




Pattern Layout and Cutting:


Create a pattern or use a simple jacket pattern. I drafted one from a silhouette. Simply trace the garment onto paper (I use parchment paper) with a  1/2" border for seam allowance. 

When planning out the pattern you will want to think about placement when working with embroidered lace that has inctricate beading.  This is the type of material you plan the pattern around. You won't want a seam to be placed along the embroidered lace unless you have no other way around it. I also wanted to use the scalloped trim of the fabric for as much of the edges as possible. 

For the front of the jacket I wanted the scalloped trim to be along the center front and for the back and sleeves I wanted the scalloped edging to be along the bottom hem. 




When cutting through embroidered lace you don't want to cut right through the appliqué sections. You should cut around them along the mesh, even if they're outside the pattern. 


Here is a photo of the back and you can see how I cut around the appliqué. 


Then I removed the pattern template and cut the appliqué out. You can then use this as an embellishment for other projects or save it for the neckline of this jacket. 


Cut out all your pattern pieces. Here you can see my front pieces with the scalloped edging along the center fronts. 


Sewing:



Place front and back pieces right sides together and pin the shoulder seams together. 


Sew a 1/4" seam allowance with a normal 2.5" stitch length. Because we aren't using a liner and the fabric is mesh you will want to sew a clean, straight stitch and cut all the excess thread. 


It should look like this once sewn at the shoulder seams. 


Lightly press the seam allowance open. Make sure to use a press cloth and low setting on your iron when working with a delicate, synthetic material like this. 

Set the sleeves inside the bodice right sides together and pin (the dashed line is the sleeve for visual reference).




Sew with a 1/4" seam allowance. Again press the seam allowances open. 


Keep right sides together and now sew the side seams of the sleeve and bodice with a 1/4" seam allowance. If you have to go over any beading when sewing just lift your presser foot slightly and glide over the materials while you sew.


Because I'm using a lot of the fabric's scalloped trim for my edges I don't have to do much finishing at this point.




Finishing:


Now to finishing the neckline and bottom front edges. 

Cut some of the embellishments from the fabric. Cut as close to the appliqué as possible without cutting through the threading.


Create a collar with your appliqué pieces and pin into place. 


Hand sew into place around the outer edges. You can also do this for the front bottom hem.



I love how this turned out. The embroidered fabric speaks for itself so I didn't have to go overboard with the design.  The lace would also be great for a top layer on a wedding dress, veils, and more. 

****In collaboration with Stylish Fabric


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31 comments:

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